A beautiful location deep in the heart of the Devon countryside.
I would highly recommend this location which has plenty of things to see and do.
On arrival you receive a warm, genuine welcome at the entry point, a really nice feature is that the staff on duty have large boards on the wall displaying their names. The entry point is part of a well stocked gift shop which a really good range of items that will keep bored youngsters engaged, a must for every parent on holiday.
Attached to the main building is a cafe offering a good range of food and refreshments. It might be a good idea to refuel before attempting the climb to the falls.
Once you begin to explore the site there is good signage including maps of the site and routes you can follow. At each key location there are information boards explaining what can be seen.
The history of the site is intriguing, Sir Edward Pellow bought the estate in 1793.He was a naval officer who became Lord Exmouth and then First Viscount of Exmouth. His son lived on the estate and became wealthy as gold, silver and lead were extracted from the estate.
In fact when leaving the entrance the first lake you pass is Lily Lake which was created to drive the wheel to power the mine. An impressive leat was constructed to provide water.
Remains of the leat
Near the assault course are the remains of an air shaft used to ventilate the mine.
The waterfall was created after the mine closed. Lady Exmouth created employment for the unemployed miners by getting them to divert water in the leat over a large rock formation to create an impressive 70 metre cascade of the Lady Exmouth Waterfalls.
To get to the top of the falls involves a steep hike through some beautiful woodland, climbing the 90 Victorian steps, passing through The Victorian Fern Garden and the remains of a Secret Garden.
Victorian StepsPart of the Victorian Fern GardenThe Secret Garden
Great care needs to be taken on the ascent and descent.
Steep ascent
Once you arrive at the top of the falls your effort is rewarded by breathtaking views of the Devon countryside from Buzzard’s View.
The fallsThe summit and leat feeding the waterfall The landscape from Buzzard’s View
On return to the bottom turn right and walk past the Old Orchard and beehives, the Green Ship to Poet’s Corner where a series of poems and riddles are on posts surrounding a giant oak tree. Here you are invited to hug the tree.
A new feature is the Labyrinth which was created to celebrate the owner’s 60th birthdays. The theme is Life’s Journey. A very fetching piece of art has been created for the centre of it.
A little further on are 12 granite standing stones.
Walking on from here you go down a steep grassy slope to a series of lakes.
Returning to the entrance you can reward yourself with a tasty treat at the cafe or perhaps purchase an ice cream.
A great location with lots of history and plenty to do.
We recently visited Parke on a lovely sunny day during recent heatwave.
Parke is the headquarters of Dartmoor National Park and is located on edge of Bovey Tracey on road towards Dartmoor. The National Trust looks after the grounds and buildings around Parke House.
After driving along a long driveway you come to a large car park. Parking is free for National Trust members. Walking down the slope from the car park you pass a massive walled garden which provided soft fruit for the house from when it was built in the 1800’s. After years of neglect it is now run by the National Trust and Bovey Community Garden. Around it is a lovely orchard containing 150 apple trees and lots of mistletoe.
There are toilets down some steps on the right just below the Walled Garden as you walk downhill from the car park.
HOME FARM CAFE
Located on the right hand side as you walk down from the Car Park. There are lots of outside tables, with umbrellas and a loop to affix dog leads. You can also eat inside (The Long Room adjacent to the path also welcomes dogs and their owners!)
Go inside the cafe to order. If you are sitting outside you are given a buzzer and when your order is ready collect it from the table by the cafe entrance.
Opening times for Home Farm cafeA delicious cream tea
Parke House was built around 1826 and is on the site of a Tudor House with some remains of original house in the gardens.
The Two Ronnies ( Ronnie Barker and Ronnie Corbett ) filmed The Picnic at Parke House and in Bovey Tracey in 1976. The film was set in the 1920’s and featured the squabbling upper classes. It was written by Ronnie Barker and was a silent movie, with no speech but with a music score, sound effects and muttering.
There are several rows of granite posts in the parkland which were rails from the nearby granite tramway used to take granite from quarries at Haytor to the nearby Stover Canal at Teigngrace.
THE WRAY VALLEY TRAIL
We recently walked along this trail through a beautiful wooded landscape which initially runs alongside the River Bovey valley. Overgrown waste heaps are scattered along the river edge from when tin was extracted from the river gravels.The trail follows the track bed of the former Bovey Tracey to Moretonhampstead railway line run by Great Western Railway.
To get to the disused railway go past the back of Parke and cross the River Bovey by a beautiful old fashioned stone bridge.
Walk up the slope ahead to join the track bed ( red route initially) which is used as a cycle way and a level walk. A safety tip walkers listen and watch for cyclists.
You can follow the track bed for nearly 7 miles from Bovey Tracey to Moretonhampstead ( there is a short stretch of the walk near Lustleigh where you have to walk along narrow roads so take care here)
In August 1858 a group met to plan a railway line from Newton Abbot to Moretonhampstead. The line was opened on 26th June 1866. Goods such as timber, livestock and agricultural produce were sent by rail. Bovey Tracey Pottery grew in size. Coal and other commodities were brought by rail for industrial and domestic use. Tourists were also attracted to the area by the railway.
However, the development of road transport led to a decline in rail traffic and the railway closed to passenger traffic in March 1959 followed by the line between Bovey Tracey and Moretonhampstead closing in 1964.
As you walk through the woods you can hear the sounds of the River Bovey flowing over rocks and rapids. You will hear a large range of different bird songs including kingfishers, spotted and green woodpeckers and dippers. If you look into the river you may see salmon or sea trout. Otters can be seen occasionally.
Look out for roe deer, foxes and badgers in the forest. Several bridges span the track bed including one that built so a farmers cattle could reach water from the river.
Near Lustleigh the track bed ends. So follow the road into Lustleigh. To the north of Lustleigh the track bed continues all the way to Moretonhampstead.
The end of the first section as you get near to Lustleigh
I visited Saltram House on a sunny and sizzling hot day. The gardens were beautiful with a number of areas given over wildflower meadows.
Also the gardens are home to a variety of exotic plants. There was also a wonderful garden trail for children.
Garden trail check point for children surrounded by wild flower meadow
When visiting ensure you walk to The Garden Folly which overlooks the River Plym (a visit to the underground cellars is a must)
Path down to cellarsPassageway to the cellars
On the way back to the house make a stop at The Orangery which is currently being renovated.
A lemon tree outside The Orangery
It was great to see a number of families having a picnic on the eighteenth century sweeping lawns
Just before arriving at the main house a visit to the Chapel Tea Room is recommended. We sat outside in the sunshine and enjoyed tea and scones ( tea served in a china tea set)
THE MAIN HOUSE
What impressed me most here were the room guides.In each room they were so enthusiastic and told the story of each room including little anecdotes.
Saltram House has been the family home of the Parker family since 1743. The family curated the house to be a showcase of the finest art, interiors and craftsmanship.
Chinese Bedroom contains four types of Chinese wallpaper put up in the 1750’s- 1760’s. A must see.
The house contains Wedgewood ceramics including creamware and a unique lamp.
Fashionable works of art fill the house from the most fashionable artists of the eighteenth century including Plympton born Sir Joshua Reynolds.
Library
The library contains over 4000 books, arranged into subject grouping. The children of the house were educated at home and used the Library as a learning resource.
The oldest book is the Nuremberg Chronicle from 1493 which contains over 1800 woodcut prints.
The room contains Metamorphic furniture eg a set of steps turns into a table and a chair when turned upside down becomes steps.
SIR JOSHUA REYNOLDS (1723-1792)
This year celebrates the 300th anniversary since his birth.He was born nearby in Plympton St Maurice. He was one of England’s greatest artists and had a great reputation for portrait painting where he captured the emotion and identity of his sitters allowing this to shine through.This approach was known as the ‘Grand Manner’
He painted a number of portraits of the Parker family.
A number of paintings of the family are on display in the house
‘We Are The Land’ the story of the effects of the colonisation by the Pilgrim Fathers was told by the Wampanoag people in a most moving way at the Theatre Royal, Plymouth on 23rd April 2023. A group of 18 were on stage sharing their story and experiences through drama, singing, dancing and drumming, a powerful testimony exploring the Wampanoag Nation’s history.
Being in the audience was a very moving, emotional experience which was thought provoking. Looking at the negative effects of colonisation from the perspective of the Wampanoag Nation.
The Pilgrim Fathers landed at Cape Cod, Massachusetts aboard the Mayflower on 21st November, 1620. This area was the territory of the Wampanoag people.
The link with Plymouth was that the Mayflower had set sail from Plymouth.
Two ships the Mayflower and the smaller vessel the Speedwell left Southampton in 1620 loaded with Pilgrims looking for a new life in America. The Speedwell sprung a leak and visited Dartmouth for a repair. The repairs did not work as 300 miles off Plymouth the Speedwell sprung another leak and both vessels returned to Plymouth. The Speedwell was abandoned and their passengers joined the Mayflower which left Plymouth on 6th September, 1620.
Passengers onboard suspected that the crew did not want to go to America and had been making holes themselves to scupper the journey.
There were 102 Pilgrims onboard with 30 crew. The first part of the journey had good weather. They then hit storms, the rigging was damaged but a Pilgrim onboard had materials to build his cabin which could be utilised for a repair. The ships doctor died on route and was buried at sea.
After 10 weeks at sea they arrived near the tip of Cape Cod, Massachusetts on 21st November, 1620.
The effects of the Colonists on the Wampanoag people was immense. Colonists who had arrived before the Mayflower had brought disease and the sickness spread as they had no immunity to it. Between 1616 and 1619, a period known as ‘ The Great Dying’ 90% of their population was lost.
Before colonisation the Wampanoag were made up of 60 tribes in 70 villages with a population of 40,000.
The Wampanoag wanted a peaceful alliance with the Pilgrim Fathers from the Mayflower. They made contact with them and were looking for allies as they were vulnerable to neighbouring tribal nations who were larger in number because they were less affected by diseases.
They helped the settlers teaching them how to farm the land and survive.
A treaty was signed between the Wampanoag and the settlers. However, land then became an issue. Serious conflicts occurred in 1623 and 1636. The colonial forces had weapons which were decisive and devastating. Wampanoag leaders were killed and survivors were forcibly sent to Bermuda as slaves.
English Missionaries tried to convert the Wampanoag to Christianity. This new religion required books and even the bible was printed in Wopanaak. However the Wampanoag tell their stories through speech. The Colonists and the church banned them speaking in their language. For generations they were banned from speaking their own language.
These words were contained in the programme and sums up the effect of colonisation.
In 1970 Wamsutta (Frank James) wrote on the occasion of the 350th anniversary of the arrival of Mayflower these censored words:
‘We, the Wampanoag, welcomed you, the white man, with open arms, little knowing that it was the beginning of the end’
However, We Are The Land demonstrated well that the Wampanoag Nation has survived against all odds and their culture is thriving.
Combe Martin is located in a narrow valley made up of one long street which runs for 3.2 kilometres. The Combe part of the name comes from the old English word ‘cumb’ meaning a wooded valley.
It was originally two separate settlements ‘Head Town’ was the main medieval settlement which was slightly inland and up the valley from the church. Later came ‘Seaside’ the lower area near the sea. In the twentieth century the two parts of the village joined into one settlement which is a classic example of a linear settlement.
The rocks in the area were formed in the Devonian Period 350-400 million years ago in a marine environment. The older rocks towards Exmoor are sandstones and the younger ones towards Combe Martin are slates, mudstones interspersed with limestone. If you look at the cliffs from the beach you can see stripes or banding in the rocks.
The beach area is known locally as ‘ Seaside’ which has on one side Great Hangman which is 318 metres high with a cliff face of 244 metres which is the highest cliff in the country.
SILVER MINES
There are a number of disused silver mines in the area and first evidence of mining silver was in 1292. There was evidence of a lot of silver mining in the 1400s as Henry V tried to fund his wars with France.
Combe Martin silver has been used in coins and in 1640 a Royal Mint was established in Combe Martin during the English Civil War. Several items in the Crown Jewels were made of Combe Martin silver. In 1880 the mines closed.
Silver was not the only thing to be mined as later iron ore and umber were mined. Umber was used as a pigment in the manufacture of paint and is brown in colour.
Visits to the Silver Mines can be arranged- go to cmsmsoc@hotmail.com
In mid 1700s lime burning was first recorded and became an important industry with a number of kilns in the area. They used local limestone and coal brought in by boats from Wales. The lime produced was added to the local acidic soils and made them more productive.
CROPS
The steep sided, sheltered valleys made the area good for growing crops. In 1535 hemp was first grown and was used to make rope for the mines and ships. It was also used to create thread for shoemaking.
MARKET GARDENING
Grains, fruit and vegetables were grown and the gardens were originally owned by the miners to grow their food. Strip Field Cultivation was the approach used where they were given narrow vertical strips of land on the valley sides on Knapp Down on the sheltered, steep south facing slopes which caught the sun. They produced food that was exported to local towns in the twentieth century when large numbers of tourists came. Produce was also sent by sea to Wales and to London.
The area was suitable for growing soft fruit and Combe Martin is famous for growing strawberries and it even had it‘s owns jam factory from 1914-1925. The jam was exported throughout the West Country and beyond. Today there is a Strawberry 🍓 Fayre on the first Saturday in June on the Bowling Green near the church.
Combe Martin was the site of an Iron Age site at Newberry Castle Fort.
There is an unusual and distinctive pub in the Main Street called the Pack of Cards which was built in 1626 by George Ley to celebrate a win at cards. It has 52 windows, 4 floors (one for each suit) and 13 doors on each floor matching number of cards in each suit.
Author R D Blackmore’s grandfather was vicar in Combe Martin.
Built in 1825 by Arthur Davie Basset for his bride.
A labyrinth of tunnels and fortifications for the nearby harbour suggest it was a haven for smugglers. A smugglers tunnel may have been blocked up in the nineteenth century.
Walter Basset (grandson of Arthur) was an engineer and built the first European Fairground Wheel designed by the American Ferris. In the late 1890s he constructed the giant Ferris wheel which is still standing in Prater Park, Vienna.
In the Second World War it was the headquarters for PLUTO ( Pipeline under the Ocean) It was decided that as the supply of petrol, oil and lubricants were essential for our military and that ships were vulnerable and frequently attacked, that a pipeline under the water was needed to supply fuels. The pipeline was flexible with a lead core that could be laid by a large cable layer ship. It was tested in December 1942 by running a cable across the Bristol Channel from Swansea to Watermouth.
LYNMOUTH
Rhenish Tower
Poet Robert Southey travelling in the area in 1799 described the area as having a distinct alpine appearance and as a result Victorian marketing for the area called it ‘ Little Switzerland’ a name which is used today.
Lynmouth has a small harbour and a Rhenish Tower dominates the harbour wall.
LOUISA – THE OVERLAND LAUNCH OF THE LYNMOUTH LIFEBOAT
On 12th January 1899 there was a tremendous storm and a 1900 ton ship, the Forrest Hall was under tow from Bristol heading for Liverpool when the towing cable broke and the rudderless ship drifted and was in danger of being washed ashore in Porlock Bay. The alarm was raised and the Watchet Lifeboat was called but could not launch because of wind direction and horrendous conditions. So at 7.52pm a telegram was sent asking Lynmouth Lifeboat to assist. Coxswain Jack Crowcombe realised it was too rough to launch from the foreshore but he did know there was a sheltered beach to launch from at Porlock Weir.
A team of 18 horses were attached to a carriage carrying the lifeboat and with a team of 109 local people the lifeboat was hauled up the 25% incline of Countisbury Hill and down the 25% incline of Porlock Hill a distance of 13 miles and involving an ascent and descent of over 434 metres.
Countisbury Hill from Lynton
The wheel came off the carriage at Blue Ball Inn and once repaired 20 people continued the journey including 14 crew. They finally arrived at the weir at 6.30am after a journey of 11 hours towing a 10 ton and 10 metre long lifeboat.
The lifeboat was immediately launched and they rowed through mountainous seas to the vessel. Some lifeboat crew members were put on board and the lifeboat stood off awaiting the arrival of 2 tugs at daybreak. Having helped the tugs to attach lines to the Forrest Hall the crew rowed across the Bristol Channel to Barry in South Wales in support with theForrest Hall arriving in Barry at 6pm that evening.
LYNMOUTH FLOOD DISASTER
On Friday 15th August 1952 Lynmouth suffered what could be described as the worst river flood in English history. Over 230mm of rain fell that day with 150mm falling in a few short hours in the afternoon and early evening. Add to that the 150mm that had already fallen in the first 2 weeks of August.
Exmoor could absorb no more water and so rain flowed across the surface with water 450mm deep in The Chains area of Exmoor. It was estimated that 90 million tons of rain fell in North Devon and West Somerset on that day. The rainfall flooded the tributaries of the East and West Lyn rivers and many tons of water, soil and boulders descended through the narrow steep sided valleys.
Trees, vegetation and boulders became blocked by the bridges which acted as dams or reservoir walls and a huge quantity of water built up behind them. When they broke a large wall of water and rocks cascaded down the steep sided valleys and hit Lynmouth in the late evening. The West Lyn river rose 18.25m above the normal level
34 people lost their lives in the wider area and 28 people in Lynmouth and Barbrook area died. 420 people were made homeless and 100 buildings were destroyed or seriously damaged. 28 out of 31 bridges were destroyed with 38 cars washed out to sea.
114,000 tons of rubble was cleared from the village following the flood. It took 6 years to rebuild and remodel Lynmouth. The Flood Memorial Hall is built on the site of the old Lifeboat Station.
WATERSMEET HOUSE
This former fishing lodge dates from 1832 and stands at the bottom of a deep gorge at the confluence of the East Lyn river and Hoaroak Water. It is now an Information Centre, tea rooms and shop for the National Trust.
Next to the Cliff Railway is the Lynmouth Exmoor National Park Centre. In it there is a small theatre where you can view films on the local area and range of displays and resources. When I visited the staff were extremely helpful and I learnt a lot. Well worth a visit.
With Lynton over 150m above Lynmouth a cliff railway was built to move freight and also people between the two locations. It is a water powered funicular railway and was opened on Easter Monday in 1890.
The railway is 263m long and climbs 152m. Pipes feed water from the West Lyn Railway which is used in the tanks on each car and is stored in reservoirs. Each car has 3182 litres tanks mounted between the wheels with a smaller 45 litre tank reservoir for the braking system. As water is discharged from the lower car, the heavier top car (which has a water tank full) descends. The two cars are connected by 4 cables, two of which are hauling cables. Each car can hold 40 passengers. This is the only cliff railway powered entirely by water.
Cliff Top Cafe at summit stationInside Cliff Top Cafe
LYNTON
Lynton in the distanceTown Hall
Lynton Cinema
Located in a Grade ll listed Methodist Church it was named as one of the best cinemas in the UK by Time Out in 2021. It is a focal point for the local community and funds things for the local community. It promotes local film making and in 2019 it premiered an animated movie ‘Louisa’ which marked the 120th Anniversary of the extraordinary story about the lifeboat being pulled over Countisbury Hill to Porlock.
The cinema seats 68 people. It serves ice creams and refreshments on an old fashioned cinema tray.
VALLEY OF THE ROCKS
About half a mile from Lynton you find Valley of the Rocks a u shaped dry valley that runs parallel to the sea. It is made up of Devonian rocks which are highly fossiliferous and strange shape rock formations abound with jagged cliff edges and many caves.
During the Ice Age an ice sheet prevented the East Lyn river from reaching the sea and so the river was diverted along the Valley of the Rocks until the ice sheet melted.
Feral goats roam freely in the area and Lynton and Lynmouth Cricket Club, founded in 1876 have their ground in the valley.
Open air theatre productions have taken place in the area since 2016.
Damien Hurst – owned a restaurant at No. 11, The Quay ( formerly known as The White Hart) He also created a 20.25 statue called ‘Verity’ ( meaning truth) which stands on the Pier overlooking the harbour. It has been loaned to the town for 20 years. It depicts a pregnant woman holding a sword aloft,whilst carrying the scales of justice and standing on a pile of law books.
CAPSTONE PLACE
Henry Williamson – lived at 4, Capstone Place after marrying for a second time.
George Eliot – visited Ilfracombe with George Henry Lewis in 1856 and wrote ‘ We are enchanted with Ilfracombe. I really think it is the loveliest sea-place I ever saw, from the combination of fine rocky coast with exquisite inland scenery.’
GORGEOUS GEORGEHAM
ROCK INN
Henry Williamson – moved to Georgeham in 1921. He visited the inn and gathered material for his novels including ‘ Tarka the Otter.’ He stayed with his aunt and then rented Skirr Cottage in the village. Tarka the Otter was published in 1927 and his success meant he bought a farm in Norfolk. When his marriage ended he returned to Georgeham in 1946. Henry is buried in the churchyard having died on 13th August 1977 on the same day as the death scene of Tarka the Otter was being filmed in the Bideford area on the River Taw.
BEAUTIFUL BIDEFORD
ROYAL HOTEL
Charles Kingsley – author of ‘ Westward Ho!’ stayed at this former Merchant’s House in 1854 and wrote part of the book there in 1855.
CHURCH OF ST PETER, WESTLEIGH
THE SHOUT (1978) – this British horror film starring Alan Bates, Susannah York and John Hurt was filmed in this church.
WESTWARD HO!
Rudyard Kipling – was educated at the United Services College in Westward Ho! His novel Stalky & Co is a recollection from this time.
BREATHTAKING BARNSTAPLE
Barnstaple was originally referred to as Barum, a contraction of it’s Latin name. Barum was mentioned by Shakespeare. It was once famous for Brannum Pottery (buildings where it was made were behind the buildings on the left of the photo above) The name Barnstable appears in the tenth century and is derived from the early English bearde meaning battle axe and stall meaning a post or pillar to mark a religious or administrative meeting place. Today Americans still refer to Barnstaple as Barnstable.
Famous people associated with Barnstaple include:
SIR FRANCIS CHICHESTER (1901 – 1972) was born in Barnstaple and gained fame as he single-handedly circumnavigated the globe in 266 days sailing from Plymouth in his boat Gypsy Moth IV on 27th August 1966. He returned on 28th May 1967 being the first person to achieve a true circumnavigation of the world from west to east via the Great Capes ( with a stop in Sydney)
JOHN GAY ( 1685 – 1732) the English poet and dramatist was born in Barnstaple and went to the town’s Grammar School. He wrote the ballad opera ‘ The Beggar’s Opera in 1728.
TED HUGHES lived in Barnstaple. He moved to North Devon in 1961. He fished the great Devon rivers of the Taw, Torridge, Exe and Dart and cared deeply about the conditions of the river ways. In the 1970’s he worked a small farm to the north of Dartmoor. He became poet laureate in 1984 and was colossal in the English literary landscape and his poetry brought people closer to the natural world.
EXCELLENT EXMOOR
RD BLACKMORE – author of Lorna Doone (1869) based his story on a valley on Exmoor which has Bradworthy Water running through it. The authors family were from Devon and had fond memories of the Exmoor scenery.
CUTE CLOVELLY
Located on the North Devon Clovelly is part of a private estate once owned by the wife of William the Conqueror. It was listed in the Domesday Book and has been in the ownership of just 3 families in the past 300 years. It is a tourist attraction notable for it’s extremely steep pedestrianised cobbled Main Street and is well known as an historic fishing village with links to smuggling and wrecking. The village has many associations with famous people and television programmes and films.
CHARLES DICKENS – described Clovelly in ‘A Message From the Sea.’
CHARLES KINGSLEY – lived in Clovelly as a child from 1832 – 1836 while his father, the Reverend Charles Kingsley first served as a Senior Curate and then Rector.
RUDYARD KIPLING – mentions Clovelly in ‘ Stalky & Co’ as being located to the west of the boys’ academy.
J M W TURNER – produced a painting of Clovelly Harbour which hangs in the National Gallery of Ireland in Dublin.
TREASURE ISLAND (1990) – this film starring Charlton Heston as Long John Silver and Oliver Teed as Captain Billy Bones was filmed in Clovelly.
SAUNTON SANDS AND BRAUNTON BURROWS
PINK FLOYD’S THE WALK (1982) – the area was used by the band to film a bunker sequence for a film of their album.
THE SHOUT (1978) – the British horror film starring Alan Bates, Susannah York and John Hurt was filmed at Saunton Sands and Braunton Burrows and on the North Devon coastline.
OTHER FILMS USING THE AREA:
EDGE OF TOMORROW (2014)
THE GUERNSEY LITERARY POTATO PEEL PIE SOCIETY (2018)
OPERATION MINCEMEAT (2021)
AQUAMAN 2 ( 2023)
SWIMBRIDGE
PARSON JACK RUSSELL ( 1795 – 1883) was born in Dartmouth and was vicar of Swimbridge from 1832 for 40 years. He was a famous huntsman who bred the first Parson Jack Russell terrier. His sermons were short because he was always wanting to get on his horse which was always saddled ready in the churchyard. He is buried in the churchyard at Swinbridge and the village pub is called The Jack Russell Inn.
OTHER FAMOUS PEOPLE ASSOCIATED WITH NORTH DEVON
ELKIE BROOKS – the famous singer lived in North Devon for many years.
As the son of a Protestant Lay Preacher he felt it his duty to humble the Catholic forces of Spain. In 1558 whilst famously playing bowls on Plymouth Hoe the news arrived of the Spanish Armada ships which were speeding towards British soil. Knowing that no British ship could leave the harbour because of the tide and adverse wind direction he said that he would finish his game of bowls before defeating the Spanish Armada- which he duly did.
Buckland Abbey is a 700 year old house in Buckland Monachorum near Plymouth which is connected to Sir Richard Grenville and Sir Francis Drake. It was formerly a Cistercian Abbey until dissolved by Henry VIII and sold to Sir Richard Grenville in 1540. Drake bought the Abbey in 1581 from Sir Richard Grenville the Younger through intermediaries. Drake was born in nearby Tavistock in 1540 and was an Elizabethan sailor and navigator and was the first Englishman to circumnavigate the globe.
Buckland Abbey holds Drake’s Drum, a snare drum, which, which Drake took with him when he circumnavigated the globe. Before he died Drake ordered that the drum be taken to Buckland Abbey and that if England was ever in danger that someone had to beat the drum and that he would defend the country.
Rembrandt Self Portrait
Buckland houses a self portrait of Rembrandt which was a first thought not to be an original by Rembrandt. After cleaning and analysis it was proved to be an original and has an estimated value of £30 million.
THE BEATLES
They had lunch at The Grand Hotel, in the former Berni Steak Bar whilst filming ‘A Magical Mystery Tour’ on 12th September 1967. They travelled to the hotel after an abandoned attempt to get to Widecombe in the Moor.
SIR ARTHUR CONAN DOYLE
Practised as a doctor in Durnford Street , Plymouth.
SIR ROBERT FALCON SCOTT ( 1868-1912)
The famous Antarctic explorer was born at Outland House in Plymouth in 1868.
ISAMBARD KINGDOM BRUNEL
The Royal Albert Bridge which spans the River Tamar between Plymouth in Devon and Saltash in Cornwall was built by Brunel. Surveying began in 1848 and construction commenced in 1854. The bridge was opened by Prince Albert on 2nd May 1859. Brunel died later that year and his name was placed above the portals at either end of the bridg as a memorial.
The 1995 film ‘Sense and Sensibility’ starring Emma Thompson was used Saltram House as a location ( it served as the Dashwood family home, Normand Park.)
OTHER FILMS USING PLYMOUTH AS A LOCATION
CHURCHILL: THE HOLLYWOOD YEARS (2004)
Starring Christian Slater used The Royal William Dockyard at Stonehouse as a location.
FORCE 10 FROM NAVARONNE (1978)
Starring Robert Shaw,Harrison Ford and Edward Fox used the docks as a location.
OTHER FAMOUS PEOPLE ASSOCIATED WITH PLYMOUTH
TOM DALEY – The English diver and television personality was born in Plymouth in 1994.
SHARRON DAVIES – The Olympic and Commonwealth games swimmer was born in Plymouth in 1962.
DAWN FRENCH – The star of French and Saunders,Jam and Jerusalem,The Comic Book Presents and The Vicar of Dibley grew up in Plymouth and went to St Dunstan’s Abbey School ( now absorbed by Plymouth College)
SIR DONALD SINDEN – This famous actor was born in Plymouth in 1923.
WAYNE SLEEP – The dancer and choreographer was born in Plymouth in 1948.
PILGRIM FATHERS
MAYFLOWER STEPS, CLOSE TO THE BARBICAN AREA
The Pilgim Fathers are believed to have finally left England from The Mayflower Steps aboard the Mayflower on 6th September 1620. They were a group of Puritans who then established the Plymouth Colony in what is today Plymouth, Massachusetts.
ROYAL HOTEL ( now Royal Court Apartments on the seafront)
Royal Court Apartments on the left
The Beatles stayed here on 7th September 1967 whilst filming ‘ The Magical Mystery Tour.’
Beatrix Potter stayed at the hotel from 1909-1910.In 1892-1893 she sketched characters for her book in Teignmouth and the sketch ‘Tall masted ships in Teignmouth’ featured in ‘ The Tale of Little Pig Robinson.’
SEAFRONT
Muse were formed in Teignmouth where band members Matt Bellamy, Chris Wolstenholme and Dominic Howard spent their childhood. The band was formed whilst they were students at Teignmouth Community College. They returned to the town on 4th and 5th September 2009 to perform two concerts to 15000 fans each night. The concerts were called ‘A Seaside Rendevous’ and took place on the ‘The Den’ on the seafront.
Muse mural on wall in Teignmouth
Norman Wisdom in 1966 filmed ‘Press For Time’ in Teignmouth ( known as Tinmouth in the film) Norman played a newspaper reporter and scenes included a double decker bus driving down Ivy Lane headlong into the River Teign and also the same bus being being driven in pursuit of a cyclist around a roundabout on the Esplanade.
Norman Wisdom
Isambard Kingdom Brunel visited Teignmouth in 1836 whilst surveying the route for the South Devon Railway between Exeter and Plymouth. In May 1843 he stayed in Teignmouth whilst convalescing from an accident after he swallowed a coin whilst doing a conjuring trick for children. He stayed in a house near the seafront where it was said ‘ he daily takes in the air on the beautiful walks around the Den.’
The Den
The film ‘ The Mercy’ starring Colin Firth and Rachel Weiss was filmed on location on the seafront and surrounding area in 2015.Locations included The Point, The Ness,Back Beach, Main Beach, Pier, and the Yacht Club. The film was about the mysterious disappearance of Donald Crowhurst whilst he was partaking in the Golden Globe Single Handed Round the World Race. He set sail from Teignmouth in his Trimaran ‘Teignmouth Electron’ on 31st October 1968. His boat was found adrift and abandoned on 10th July 1969. What happened to him remains a mystery to this day.
Teignmouth Electron near docks during filming of The Mercy
John Keats stayed for three months at No 20, Northumberland Place, near the seafront looking after his brother who had tuberculosis in the dark ground floor rooms of this newly built house. He liked Devon but in a letter to a friend he described it as a ‘ splashy, rainy, misty, snowy , foggy, haily, floody, middy, slipshod county.’
Whalebone Arch
In the period 1922-1924 two whalebone arches were erected along the Eastcliff stretch of the promenade called ‘Old Maids’ Walk.’ They were erected by Pike Ward, a local ship owner and merchant trader who was proud of his home town and his connection with the fishing trade. The arches eroded and were taken down after the Second World War.
SPRAY POINT
The Ghost Train (1941) had a sequence near the beginning filmed on the railway line running from Spray Point towards Teignmouth Railway Station. The story written by Arnold Ridley ( who played Private Charles in Dad’s Army and who is actress Daisy Ridley’s great uncle) was based on his experiences when he became stranded at Mangotsfield Railway Station near Bristol. The film starred Arthur Askey and Richard Murdoch and told the story of passengers travelling on the GWR who become stranded overnight when they stop at Fal Vale Junction and miss their connecting train to Truro. Strange things start to happen in the haunted railway station relating to a ghost train. Some other sequences were shot between Red Rock and Dawlish Railway Station.
View of railway line looking towards Spray Point
GREAT BELLA VISTA
Jane Austen stayed at this house whilst on a family holiday in 1802.
The Den House possibly Great Bella Vista where the Austen’s stayed in lodgings
TEIGNMOUTH DOCKS
Teignmouth Docks have been in existence since 13th century. In 1792, James Templar built the Stover Canal, near Newton Abbot, which allowed locally extracted ‘ ball clay’ to be carried by barge down the River Teign to Teignmouth Docks, after initially being transported on the Granite Tramway. In 1821 The New Quay in Teignmouth was built to help with the shipping of Dartmoor granite to rebuild London Bridge.Today the docks are used to import/export clay, timber and grain.
New Quay looking towards Shaldon
Joseph Mallord William Turner RA stayed in Teignmouth in 1812, whilst on a tour sketching views of the South Coast of England. A famous oil painting of Teignmouth harbour is on display in a National Trust property.
THOMAS LUNY HOUSE
Thomas Luny was a prolific marine artist who lived in Thomas Luny House (1759-1837) His back garden stretched down to the River Teign from where he could watch ships.
A famous road which runs along the former clifftop and overlooks Exmouth beach, Dawlish Warren and the South Devon coast.
NUMBER 6 THE BEACON-NELSON HOUSE
Lady Nelson, the wife of Lord Nelson lived here from 1801 until she died in 1829. She is buried in Littleham Churchyard on the outskirts of Exmouth.
NUMBER 10 – THE BEACON COURT
Lady Byron, wife of the poet and her daughter Ada came to live in the house after Lord Byron deserted them in 1823. At this time it was a hotel and Exmouth was a fashionable resort and The Bath House (formerly The Deer Leap) on the seafront was a bath house used by visitors for hot, cold, salt, fresh or mineral bathing.
MANOR HOTEL (www.manor Exmouth.co.uk)
This was one of the first properties built on The Beacon and is Exmouth’s oldest hostelry dating back to the 1790’s.
Frank Liszt the composer and musician visited the hotel in 1840( it was then known as The Bear Hotel)
Manor Hotel and The Beacon
A LA RONDE (www.nationaltrust.org.uk/a-la-ronde/)
This quirky 16 sided house is located on the outskirts of Exmouth. Two spinster sisters Jane and Mary Parminter built it in the 18th Century. It has been used as a film location for Rosamunde Pitcher’s ‘ The Dream of Summer’ which was a German television production which has over 7 million viewers on Sunday evenings. Many German visitors travel around Devon and Cornwall to visit the locations used for these German programmes.
OTHER FAMOUS PEOPLE ASSOCIATED WITH EXMOUTH
PAULINE COLLINS – was born in Exmouth on 3rd September 1940 and is famous for appearing in the television series ‘Upstairs Downstairs’ and in the film ‘Shirley Valentine.’
PAM ST CLEMENT- the actress who played Pat in the television series ‘Eastenders’ lived in a foster home on a farm in Devon.She also attended the former Rolle College in Exmouth where she trained to be a teacher.
ED STEWART – the television and radio broadcaster was born in Exmouth on 23rd April 1941. He presented the children’s television programme ‘ Crackerjack’ in the 1970’s.
ON THE RIVER EXE
POWDERHAM CASTLE (www.powderham.co.uk)
Remains of the Day- this 1993 film starring Anthony Hopkins and Emma Thompson was filmed at Powderham Castle.
STARCROSS
Isambard Kingdom Brunel (1806-1859) built a Pumping Engine House in the Italianate style at Starcross. The house was built to power the Atmospheric trains on the South Devon Railway between Exeter St David’s and Plymouth Millbay Railway Stations.
They contained the boilers that provided the power to pumps that created the partial vacuum to move trains along the track. A tube ran along the centre of the track between two rails and contained a partial vacuum and the train carried a piston in the tube which propelled the train.
Pumping Engine House and a photo of it next to the Main Railway line A view of Exmouth from Starcross
EAST BUDLEIGH
Sir Walter Raleigh was born near here at Haynes Barton in 1552. He was a famous adventurer and courtier to Queen Elizabeth l. He ade a failed attempt to establish the first English Colony in America.He brought the first potatoes and tobacco to Britain.Raleigh became a favourite of the Queen after going to Ireland to suppress an uprising. He became an MP in 1584 and received estates in Ireland. In1592 the Queen was angered when she discovered he had married one of her maids of honour and as a result he was imprisoned in the Tower of London. On his release he led a failed expedition to El Dorado.King James l disliked Raleigh and he was sentenced to death n 1603. This was reduced to life imprisonment but he was released after 12 years. He then went on an unsuccessful expedition to El Dorado. After defying the King’s instructions and attacking the Spanish he was executed on his return.
BUDLEIGH SALTERTON
DAME HILARY MANTEL
The twice winning Booker Prize author who wrote Wolf Hall, Bring Up The Bodies and The Mirror and the Light lived in Budleigh from 2010. She was President of the Budleigh Salterton Literary Festival. She sold the pine desk on which she wrote these famous books to support the Festival’s work in local schools.
OTTERY ST MARY
Samuel Taylor Coleridge (1772-1834) was born in Ottery St Mary where his father was vicar and also headmaster of the Free Grammar School. He was the youngest of 13 children. His father died when he was 8 and he was sent to Christ’s Hospital School in London and then went to Jesus College in Cambridge. He spent his summer holidays in Ottery. He is best remembered for ‘The Rime of the Ancient Mariner.’
WILLIAM MAKEPEACE THACKERAY (1811- 1863)
His mother and stepfather settled at Larkbeare near Ottery St Mary and he spent some time there before going to University. Ottery features as Clavering and Exeter as Chatteris in his novel Pendennis.
SIDMOUTH
JANE AUSTEN
Jane and her family spent three months in Sidmouth in 1801. Her father had had social contacts. amongst the clergy in the area including Upton Pyne.
Vanity Fair – a television version of William Makepiece Thackeray’s novel was filmed on Sidmouth Seafront and on the beach. Period bathing machines were even placed on the beach for filming.
Sleeping Murder – In1986 Agatha Christie’s Sleeping Murder was filmed in Sidmouth which became Dilmouth in the story. It was filmed in the town and on the seafront.
On Wednesday 15th September 2021 it will be 131 years since the birth of ‘ the Queen of Crime’ in Torquay. So I thought to commemorate this anniversary I should highlight some of her links with this area.
Agatha Mary Clarissa Miller was born in Torquay in the now demolished Ashfield ( in Barton Road close to Torre Railway station) on 15th September 1890. All that remains of Ashfield are fragments of the garden wall. A blue plaque now denotes where the family home once stood.
A number of literary guests came to Ashfield including Rudyard Kipling and Henry James.
ALL SAINTS CHURCH, BABBACOMBE
Agatha lived just a few hundred yards from the church and her father, Frederick Miller was one of the major financial contributors to the building of the new church. He made Agatha one of the founders and it was here where she was baptised.
BEACON COVE, TORQUAY
Near to The Imperial Hotel is this cove formerly known as ‘ Ladies Bathing Cove’ and it was where Agatha used to swim and where she got into difficulties whilst swimming and almost drowned.
The Imperial Hotel ( http://www.the hotel collection.co.uk) and a view looking towards Beacon Cove
Agatha visited this hotel on a number of occasions and it naturally featured in several novels :
BODY IN THE LIBRARY – Miss Marple visited the hotel which was called ‘The Majestic’ and was located in the fictional ‘Danemouth.’
PERIL AT END HOUSE – The opening scene between Poirot and Hastings takes place on the terrace at The Imperial which is called ‘The Majestic’ and is in the Cornish resort of St Loo which is obviously Torquay.
It was here in October 1912, whilst attending a dance hosted by Lord and Lady Clifford that Agatha met Archibald Christie. He marked her dance card for most of the evening. Three months later they were engaged. The visitors book at Ugbrooke House still has the visitors book from that evening containing Archie’s signature.
Located on the seafront, next to the railway station, this is the hotel where Agatha spent her honeymoon night after marrying Archie Christie on Christmas Eve in 1914. The hotel has an Agatha Christie Suite.
PAVILION, TORQUAY
This is located on the seafront next to Torquay Marina. Agatha attended plays and recitals here. It was while attending a Wagner Concert here that Archie Christie proposed to her ( others say this happened in The Music Room at Ashfield.)
PRINCESS PIER, TORQUAY
The Princess Pier is located next to the Princess Pier on the seafront. Built in 1890 it was the favourite location for Agatha to go roller-skating.
ROYAL TORBAY YACHT CLUB
Located near to the Imperial Hotel it was a club that Agatha’s father, Frederick Miller was a member.
TORQUAY TOWN HALL
Agatha worked here during World War 1 as a Nursing Auxiliary, as a part of the Voluntary Aid Detachment, it was here that she picked up knowledge on poisons and potions. The Town Hall had been converted into a field hospital. The character Hercule Poirot was based on Belgian refugees she met there. There were a number of Belgian refugees resident in her local parish of Torre. In writing ‘Mysterious Affair At Styles’ she decided to make Poirot a retired Chief of the Belgian Police Force.
Greenway was the holiday home of Agatha Christie and Max Mallowan ( her second husband who she married in 1930) In 1959 Agatha transferred Greenway to her daughter Rosalind Hicks. Each September, in the Drawing Room of the house, Agatha would gather her family around her to read a draft of her latest novel which was always published at Christmas. If anyone could detect who committed the crime ( husband Max was very successful at doing this) the story was often changed prior to publication. Greenway featured in ‘Dead Man’s Folly’ and ‘Five Little Pigs.’ In’Dead Man’s Folly’ Greenway was called Nasse House and the River Dart was the River Helm. The boathouse at Greenway featured in the story and the Youth Hostel next door to Greenway is called Maypool. David Suchet on 28th June 2013 filmed the last ever Poirot scene at Greenway, in the long running successful series which ran for 25 years. The scene showed him entering the front door of Greenway House in the ‘Dead Man’s Folly’ episode.
Agatha was born on 15th September 1890 and an annual festival is held in Torbay around this date. The official Agatha Christie website is http://www.agathachristie.com
Greenway from the River DartThe boathouse at Greenway from the River DartThe River Dart from Greenway looking towards Kingswear and the mouth of the River Dart
CHURSTON RAILWAY STATION
This railway line runs from Paignton via Churston to Kingswear on the River Dart which opened on 16th April 1864. Dartmouth Steam Railway now runs a service along this route ( http://www.dartmouthrailriver.co.uk)
Churston Station originally opened as Brixham Road Station.
Agatha alighted from her train at this station when visiting her summer home at Greeenway. She also boarded her train here to see her publisher in London.One of her characters arrives at this station to investigate a murder in ‘ABC Murders’ ( Churston is used in the book as location C)
CHURSTON COURT AND ST MARY THE VIRGIN CHURCH
Churston Court ( http://www.churstoncourt.co.uk) is a Grade 1 listed Saxon Manor House which opened as an Inn during Elizabeth 1’s reign. Agatha used to visit St Mary the Virgin church and then pop in next door to have lunch with Lord and Lady Churston at the Manor House.
Agatha donated the proceeds from one of her books to enable the church to purchase a new stained glass window. She made stipulations that it should show the good shepherd holding a lamb and be in her favourite colours of mauve and pale green.
PAIGNTON PICTURE HOUSE
This cinema is located next to Paignton Railway Station and the Dartmouth Steam Railway. Agatha used to visit the cinema and her favourite seat was Set 2, Row 2 in the circle. The cinemas and theatres in her books are meant to be based on The Picture House.
The cinema opened in 1914 and is believed to be the oldest surviving purpose built cinema in Europe. It was closed in 1999 but is now set to reopen following the work of loyal supporters.
During the 1930’s Agatha sketched the island in her notebook and used it as a setting for ‘Then There Were None‘ where the island becomes Soldier Island and for ‘Evil Under The Sun.’
Agatha always stayed in the secluded Beach House on the island ( which is now part of the hotel complex)
In 2001 the television series Poirot with David Suchet used the island for’ Evil Under The Sun.’ The hotel in the story was called The Jolly Roger Hotel.
Several outdoor scenes from the 1987 version of ‘ Nemesis’ were filmed in the hotel.
Agatha Christie is a registered trademark of Agatha Christie Limited in the UK and Worldwide.
All book titles and characters such as Poirot are trademarked by Agatha Christie Limited.
Devon Connections 